Like a toque-wearing Moses, Andre Rochat parted the waves of Vegas budget buffets in 1980, taking the cuisine of his native France to the culinary desert. Rochat offers since added Andre's in the Monte Carlo and Alizé at the Palms. But his provincially decorated flagship in a 1930s-era downtown house-with four warm dinner rooms, each representing another French city and embellished by using lots of wood, tapestries, and soft lighting-is even now moving good, owing partly to a menus that features both traditional French meals such as coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a wine-enriched cream sauce) and a lot of with current twists, like grilled quail with figs and prosciutto. Entrée prices start in the mid-30s.
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